It was indeed way too long for me to write about this trip.
But hand notes, pictures, facebook post helped me to collect the memories and
write about this post. Slowly, when I
decided to write about this, my brain started to collect all the information to
the point that I can remember some important details. The trip was so memorable
after all. I call it “The ETHEREAL clouds of SAPA’
Stranded in Hanoi
It was 6 am when I reached Nội
Bài International
airport in Hanoi. I felt terribly tired and sleepy after 6 hours stopped over in
Kuala Lumpur. Since I was traveling with a tight budget, The only budget flight that I got from Bali to Hanoi
was only with Air Asia which unfortunately offered a very long stop over. There
was I waiting and sleeping at the super freezing KLCC. Good thing was a
Vietnamese friend warned me to bring enough warm clothes as January known as cold
and windy season in the North of Vietnam. I never imagined that I would use
them earlier in the warm Kuala Lumpur and yet freezing airport.
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| Looking out to the distance |
Anyways, I safely landed in Nội
Bài International airport and found
my way to the GA HANOI, the railway station in Hanoi to get the train ticket to
Lao Chai. Struggling with the language, I found myself crammed in to the locals
in front of a small counter where they sold the ticket to Lao Chai where I can
continue my trip to SAPA. Perhaps because they mistakenly thought that I am a Vietnamese,
they allowed me to queue to buy the ticket in that counter with a very reasonable
local price. I wasn’t surprise to learn that there are different building where
they sell train tickets for tourist which of course with different (higher)
price. I considered myself lucky.
I paid for 560.000 DONG for a comfortable sleeper train. I
was happy except that the train only started off by 8 pm. It means I would be
stranded again for more than 12 hours. I asked my brain to quickly decide what
to do when I was eventually free from the crowd. I checked my only map and found out the center
for backpackers is not that far from the station that I could walk for less
than 30 minutes. Off I went there and of course with some dramas of getting
lost Instead of 30 minutes, it took me almost one hour to get to Hanoi’s Old
Quarter where all bars, hotels, backpacker hostels are located. Quickly I screened hostels and backpacking guesthouse.
I badly needed a shower and a space to just crushed on. Hanoi Backpackers hostel
it is. With only 5 USD ( in 2013, could be more now), one bed on a 6 beds dorm
was mine. My world was slowly getting better.
The town behind the mist
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| Paddy Rice Fields |
Long story short, after recuperated from the hassle and
stranding story, I reached SAPA the next morning. The ride with sleeper train
was comfortable. I was surprise to found clean linens in my berth. I used the 10
hours ride from Hanoi to Lao Chai the nearest train station to SAPA with a
beautiful sleep. I geared up myself as soon I stepped off from the train as the
cold brutally slapped my face. I followed the crowed with backpacks assuming
they would also travelling to SAPA which was a good decision I made. Together
with the crowed, I hopped on a minivan to continue another 45 minutes road trip
to town SAPA itself.
As far as I could see, it was only a mist. I narrowed my
eyes, focusing at searching for the name of the hostels that I book from Jakarta.
My hostel situated in a center of the town. With only 25 USD per night I could
get a private room with all utilities that I needed including heater blanket.
After a few chit-chat with the owner of the hostel, it
turned out I could change my reservation to the next day if I followed the
trekking group that she organized. It was a 1N/2D trekking in the valley of
SAPA. Of course, I did it.
There was I with
other fellow backpackers, Mathew, Vianey, Jessica and Greg guided by Zuong,
a nice girl from the Black H’mong Tribe. We walked from 9 am to 5 pm passing
through small muddy path and the beds of the rice fields. Often we fell down
for it was so slippery and ended up having mud all over our body. We had fun on
each other and couldn’t stop laughing. What a trip! The view itself was
tremendous and sophisticated. As far as I could see lies the huge (never seen
like that before in Indonesia) paddy rice terraced fields. From time to time we
passed the ethnic minorities like Black H’mong and Red Dao women. It felt
different when you are being expose to a total different culture. I felt lucky.
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| Accomodation in the village |
After 20 km walked, we stopped at one simple Hmong house to
rest and sleep for a night. Nothing was special with our accommodation BUT Its
simplicity. Experiencing how the ethnic minority live for only one night with a
very basic facilities There are matrass lied close to each other at the second
floor where people were gathered (cooking, eating, or just simply chatting) at
the first floor. Togetherness continued still, the smell of food being cooked
from the open kitchen, the warmth of the house owner, and a simple fireplace
that they placed in the middle of the house was really inviting me to stay
downstairs. We shared stories, we made jokes, and we laugh. Of course with the
help of very bitter and strong rice wine helped us all to feel at ease.
The next day, we continue our trekking program towards the
town. We passed several beautiful waterfalls and more paddy rice fields. Tiring
and content at the same time, we finished the program in the afternoon and
ended up in one nice bar drinking warm wine.
Everything was completely different in Town. The town was
still hidden by its mist. I couldn’t see the valley as clouds perfectly covered
them. But this place is indeed special.
And oh, my story of this trip has been published at detik. travel too, writing in Bahasa Indonesia was indeed easier for me..
here is the link
Some more pictures:
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| Hmong Woman |
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| Our Next Generation |
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| fire place to keep us warm |
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| Sweet Souvenir |
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| behind the mist |
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Traditional Market
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| View of Pansipan mountain from my room |
Stay tune for the
story of The descendent of a dragon in Halong Bay
